2 AGRIBUSINESS – 2.6 – THE WORK IN THE SEASONS

 
ORGANIC FARMING COURSE AGRO-ECONOMY
2 AGRIBUSINESS – 2.6 – THE WORK IN THE SEASONS




 
Winter or dry season as we call it Africa is a time for building and repairing, for felling timber and converting it, for laying hedges, digging drains and ditches, building fences and stone walls. If the soil in the garden is heavy clay, it is best to keep off it as much as possible, because digging or working such soil in winter only does harm to it. On lighter land the same inhibition does not apply In cold climates the land may be deep under snow anyway, and all the crops that have been harvested will be safe in clamp or root cellar, or stored away in jars or bottles, crocks and barrels. The good husbandman should start the winter feeling that his labours have secured him a store of good and varied food, to keep him and his family through the dark months, and provide hospitality for his friends too. So for the self-supporter winter is also a time for feasting.
Make hot bed with compost Greenhouse and perennials
In the greenhouse, it is time to clear winter lettuce, and the enriched soil that grew tomatoes last year goes out to the garden, with fresh soil harrowed in and mixed with compost Tomato and cucumber seed are sown in the heat of the greenhouse. "Hot beds" can be built up in the cold frames. Mature compost is emptied on to the land intended for potatoes. Any remaining compost then goes into an empty bin to aerate it, and a new compost heap is begun. Perennial plants protected from the winter cold bystraw and seaweed, are resting, preparing for their spurt of growth in the spring.
 
Plot A
This plot will have been very heavily mucked after the potatoes were lifted may well be wintersown broad beans this year, if the winter is mild. The rest will go under winter rye or another winter green crop, which will stop the loss of nitrogen, and keep it ready to dig in as early as the land is dry enough to work in the spring. The plot was limed last autumn, after the spuds had been lifted, and this will benefit the peas and beans that are to follow and also the brassica crop which will come after them. A small part of this bed will have been planted with spring cabbage plants last autumn, and there will be a bed of leeks, which will be ready to pull.
 
Plot B
This plot should be full of big brassica plants: Brussels sprouts, hearting broccoli ("winter cauliflower"), big hard-hearted winter cabbage, kale, red cabbage, and any other brassica plant that can weather the winter. There may well be a few rows of swedes if these haven't already been harvested and clamped. Turnips must be in the clamp or root cellar by now, for they can't stand the winter as swedes can. This plot will provide most of the greenstuff during the winter, helped by the leeks in plot A. In temperate climates, this helps to avoid much complicated canning and bottling. Shallots are planted out, as this plot becomes the "miscellaneous" break next summer.
 
Plot C
This plot is under green manure such as rye or some other winter crop. Last year it bore the miscellaneous, short-lived crops. As soon as the land is dry enough to work, the green manure can be forked into the ground, so that it can begin to rot down. There is no hum', because this plot is going to be "roots" this year, and most of these will not have to be planted out very early.
 
Plot D
This plot is fallow, or else under green manure, although if the roots were harvested late last year, there may not have been time to sow any green manure. It is time to barrowout compost or muck for the future crop of spuds. If harrowing is done in heavy frost, it is easier to push the barrow. It also does the ground less damage. There may be a row of celery left undug, and this can be remedied as the winter progresses.
 
Fruit plot
The fruit trees only need spraying with a winter wash if pests have afflicted them badly. Two-and-a half pounds (1.1 kg) of caustic soda dissolved in ten gallons (45.5 litres) of water was the old-fashioned remedy, but these days most people buy proprietary winter washes. After the middle of February fruit trees, gooseberries, and other bushes are pruned. The blackcurrants may well have been pruned in the autumn. Muck or compost is barrowed and dumped around trees and bushes, and the ground between soft fruit bushes is forked lightly. All pruning’s should be burned.
Spray and prune fruit trees if necessary
 
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KOZI YA KILIMO HAI KILIMO-UCHUMI
2 KILIMO – 2.6 - Kazi ya Majira ya baridi katika Misimu
 
Majira ya baridi au kiangazi kama tunavyoiita Afrika ni wakati wa kujenga na kutengeneza, kwa ajili ya kukata mbao na kubadilisha, kwa ajili ya kuweka ua, kuchimba mifereji ya maji na mitaro, kujenga ua na kuta za mawe.. Ikiwa udongo kwenye bustani ni udongo mzito, ni bora kuizuia iwezekanavyo, kwa sababu kuchimba au kufanya kazi udongo huo wakati wa baridi hudhuru tu. Katika ardhi nyepesi, kizuizi kama hicho hakitumiki Katika hali ya hewa ya baridi, ardhi inaweza kuwa chini ya theluji hata hivyo, na mazao yote ambayo yamevunwa yatakuwa salama kwenye pishi au pishi la mizizi, au kuhifadhiwa kwenye mitungi au chupa, crocks na mapipa. Mkulima mzuri anapaswa kuanza msimu wa baridi akihisi kwamba kazi yake imemletea akiba ya chakula kizuri na cha aina mbalimbali, ili kumweka yeye na familia yake katika miezi ya giza, na kutoa ukarimu kwa marafiki zake pia. Kwa hiyo kwa majira ya baridi ya kujitegemea pia ni wakati wa karamu.
Tengeneza kitanda cha moto na mbolea Greenhouse na kudumu
Katika chafu, ni wakati wa kufuta lettuki ya majira ya baridi, na udongo ulioimarishwa ambao ulikua nyanya mwaka jana huenda kwenye bustani, na udongo safi uliopigwa na kuchanganywa na mbolea Nyanya na mbegu za tango hupandwa kwenye joto la chafu. "Vitanda vya moto" vinaweza kujengwa kwenye muafaka wa baridi. Mbolea iliyokomaa hutupwa kwenye ardhi iliyokusudiwa kwa viazi. Mbolea yoyote iliyobaki kisha huingia kwenye pipa tupu ili kuitia hewa, na lundo jipya la mboji huanza. Mimea ya kudumu iliyolindwa kutokana na baridi ya baridi na mwani, inapumzika, ikitayarisha ukuaji wao katika chemchemi.
 
Kiwanja A
Kiwanja hiki kitakuwa kimechafuliwa sana baada ya viazi kuinuliwa huenda zikawa maharagwe mapana yaliyopandwa msimu wa baridi mwaka huu, ikiwa majira ya baridi ni kidogo. Zilizobaki zitaenda chini ya rye ya msimu wa baridi au mazao mengine ya kijani kibichi, ambayo yatasimamisha upotezaji wa nitrojeni, na kuiweka tayari kuchimba mapema ardhi inapokuwa kavu vya kutosha kufanya kazi katika msimu wa joto. Kiwanja kiliwekwa chokaa vuli iliyopita, baada ya spuds kuinuliwa, na hii itafaidika na mbaazi na maharagwe ambayo yatafuata na pia mazao ya brassica ambayo yatakuja baada yao. Sehemu ndogo ya kitanda hiki itakuwa imepandwa na mimea ya kabichi ya spring vuli ya mwisho, na kutakuwa na kitanda cha leeks, ambacho kitakuwa tayari kuvuta.
 
Kiwanja B
Kiwanja hiki kinapaswa kuwa kimejaa mimea mikubwa ya brassica: Chipukizi za Brussels, broccoli ya kupendeza ("koliflower ya msimu wa baridi"), kabichi kubwa ya msimu wa baridi yenye moyo mgumu, kale, kabichi nyekundu, na mmea mwingine wowote wa brassica ambao unaweza kuhimili msimu wa baridi. Kunaweza kuwa na safu chache za swedi ikiwa hizi hazijavunwa na kubanwa. Turnip lazima ziwe kwenye banda au pishi la mizizi kwa sasa, kwa sababu haziwezi kustahimili majira ya baridi kama Wasweden wanavyoweza. Njama hii itatoa zaidi ya kijani wakati wa majira ya baridi, ikisaidiwa na leeks katika njama A. Katika hali ya hewa ya joto, hii inasaidia kuepuka canning ngumu sana na chupa. Shallots hupandwa nje, kwani njama hii inakuwa mapumziko "mbalimbali" msimu ujao wa joto.
 
Kiwanja C
Kiwanja hiki kiko chini ya samadi ya kijani kibichi kama vile rye au mazao mengine ya msimu wa baridi. Mwaka jana ilizaa mazao mbalimbali, ya muda mfupi. Mara tu ardhi inapokauka vya kutosha kufanya kazi, mbolea ya kijani inaweza kugawanywa ndani ya ardhi, ili ianze kuoza. Hakuna hum', kwa sababu njama hii itakuwa "mizizi" mwaka huu, na nyingi kati ya hizi hazitalazimika kupandwa mapema sana.
 
Kiwanja D
Kiwanja hiki ni cha kulima, au chini ya samadi ya kijani kibichi, ingawa kama mizizi ilivunwa mwishoni mwa mwaka jana, kunaweza kuwa hakukuwa na wakati wa kupanda mbolea ya kijani kibichi. Ni wakati wa kumaliza mbolea au tope kwa mazao ya baadaye ya spuds. Ikiwa uchungu unafanywa kwenye baridi kali, ni rahisi kusukuma barrow. Pia haina uharibifu mdogo wa ardhi. Kunaweza kuwa na safu ya celery iliyoachwa bila kukatwa, na hii inaweza kurekebishwa msimu wa baridi unaendelea.
 
Mpango wa matunda
Miti ya matunda inahitaji tu kunyunyiziwa na safisha ya majira ya baridi ikiwa wadudu wamewatesa vibaya. Pauni mbili na nusu (kilo 1.1) za soda iliyoyeyushwa katika galoni kumi (lita 45.5) za maji ilikuwa dawa ya kizamani, lakini siku hizi watu wengi hununua safisha za majira ya baridi zinazomilikiwa. Baada ya katikati ya Februari miti ya matunda, gooseberries, na misitu mingine hukatwa. Currant nyeusi inaweza kuwa ilikatwa katika vuli. Matope au mboji huchujwa na kutupwa karibu na miti na vichaka, na ardhi kati ya vichaka laini vya matunda hutiwa uma kidogo. Vipandikizi vyote vinapaswa kuchomwa moto.
Nyunyizia na kupogoa miti ya matunda ikiwa ni lazima.




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