2 AGRIBUSINESS – 2.6 – THE WORK IN THE SEASONS
ORGANIC
FARMING COURSE AGRO-ECONOMY
2 AGRIBUSINESS – 2.6 – THE WORK IN THE SEASONS
Winter or dry season as we
call it Africa is a time for building and repairing, for felling timber and
converting it, for laying hedges, digging drains and ditches, building fences
and stone walls. If the soil in the garden is heavy clay, it is best to keep
off it as much as possible, because digging or working such soil in winter only
does harm to it. On lighter land the same inhibition does not apply In cold
climates the land may be deep under snow anyway, and all the crops that have
been harvested will be safe in clamp or root cellar, or stored away in jars or
bottles, crocks and barrels. The good husbandman should start the winter
feeling that his labours have secured him a store of good and varied food, to
keep him and his family through the dark months, and provide hospitality for
his friends too. So for the self-supporter winter is also a time for feasting.
Make hot bed with compost
Greenhouse and perennials
In the greenhouse, it is
time to clear winter lettuce, and the enriched soil that grew tomatoes last
year goes out to the garden, with fresh soil harrowed in and mixed with compost
Tomato and cucumber seed are sown in the heat of the greenhouse. "Hot
beds" can be built up in the cold frames. Mature compost is emptied on to
the land intended for potatoes. Any remaining compost then goes into an empty
bin to aerate it, and a new compost heap is begun. Perennial plants protected
from the winter cold bystraw and seaweed, are resting, preparing for their
spurt of growth in the spring.
Plot A
This plot will have
been very heavily mucked after the potatoes were lifted may well be wintersown broad beans
this year, if the winter is mild. The rest will go under winter rye or another
winter green crop,
which will stop the loss of nitrogen, and keep it ready to dig in as early as
the land is dry enough to work in the spring. The plot was limed last autumn,
after the spuds had been lifted, and this will benefit the peas and beans that are
to follow and also the brassica
crop which will come after them. A small part of this bed will have been
planted with spring
cabbage plants last
autumn, and there will be a bed of leeks, which will be ready to pull.
Plot B
This
plot should be full of big brassica plants: Brussels sprouts, hearting broccoli
("winter cauliflower"), big hard-hearted winter cabbage, kale, red
cabbage, and any other brassica plant that can weather the winter. There may
well be a few rows of swedes if these haven't already been harvested and
clamped. Turnips must be in the clamp or root cellar by now, for they can't
stand the winter as swedes can. This plot will provide most of the greenstuff
during the winter, helped by the leeks in plot A. In temperate climates, this
helps to avoid much complicated canning and bottling. Shallots are planted out,
as this plot becomes the "miscellaneous" break next summer.
Plot C
This plot is under green manure such as rye or some
other winter crop. Last year it bore the miscellaneous, short-lived crops. As
soon as the land is dry enough to work, the green manure can be forked into the
ground, so that it can begin to rot down. There is no hum', because this plot
is going to be "roots" this year, and most of these will not have to
be planted out very early.
Plot D
This plot is fallow, or else
under green manure, although if the roots were harvested late last year, there
may not have been time to sow any green manure. It is time to barrowout compost
or muck for the future crop of spuds. If harrowing is done in heavy frost, it
is easier to push the barrow. It also does the ground less damage. There may be
a row of celery left undug, and this can be remedied as the winter progresses.
Fruit plot
The fruit trees only need spraying with a winter wash
if pests have afflicted them badly. Two-and-a half pounds (1.1 kg) of caustic
soda dissolved in ten gallons (45.5 litres) of water was the old-fashioned
remedy, but these days most people buy proprietary winter washes. After the
middle of February fruit trees, gooseberries, and other bushes are pruned. The
blackcurrants may well have been pruned in the autumn. Muck or compost is
barrowed and dumped around trees and bushes, and the ground between soft fruit
bushes is forked lightly. All pruning’s should be burned.
Spray and prune fruit trees if necessary
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KOZI YA KILIMO HAI KILIMO-UCHUMI
2 KILIMO – 2.6 - Kazi ya Majira ya baridi katika
Misimu
Majira ya baridi au kiangazi kama tunavyoiita Afrika
ni wakati wa kujenga na kutengeneza, kwa ajili ya kukata mbao na kubadilisha,
kwa ajili ya kuweka ua, kuchimba mifereji ya maji na mitaro, kujenga ua na kuta
za mawe.. Ikiwa udongo kwenye bustani ni udongo mzito, ni bora kuizuia
iwezekanavyo, kwa sababu kuchimba au kufanya kazi udongo huo wakati wa baridi
hudhuru tu. Katika ardhi nyepesi, kizuizi kama hicho hakitumiki Katika hali ya
hewa ya baridi, ardhi inaweza kuwa chini ya theluji hata hivyo, na mazao yote
ambayo yamevunwa yatakuwa salama kwenye pishi au pishi la mizizi, au
kuhifadhiwa kwenye mitungi au chupa, crocks na mapipa. Mkulima mzuri anapaswa
kuanza msimu wa baridi akihisi kwamba kazi yake imemletea akiba ya chakula
kizuri na cha aina mbalimbali, ili kumweka yeye
na familia yake katika miezi ya giza, na kutoa ukarimu kwa marafiki zake pia.
Kwa hiyo kwa majira ya baridi ya kujitegemea pia ni wakati wa karamu.
Tengeneza kitanda cha moto na mbolea Greenhouse na
kudumu
Katika chafu, ni wakati wa kufuta lettuki ya majira
ya baridi, na udongo ulioimarishwa ambao ulikua nyanya mwaka jana huenda kwenye
bustani, na udongo safi uliopigwa na kuchanganywa na mbolea Nyanya na mbegu za
tango hupandwa kwenye joto la chafu. "Vitanda vya moto" vinaweza
kujengwa kwenye muafaka wa baridi. Mbolea iliyokomaa hutupwa kwenye ardhi
iliyokusudiwa kwa viazi. Mbolea yoyote iliyobaki kisha huingia kwenye pipa tupu
ili kuitia hewa, na lundo jipya la mboji huanza. Mimea ya kudumu iliyolindwa
kutokana na baridi ya baridi na mwani, inapumzika, ikitayarisha ukuaji wao
katika chemchemi.
Kiwanja A
Kiwanja hiki kitakuwa kimechafuliwa sana baada ya
viazi kuinuliwa huenda zikawa maharagwe mapana yaliyopandwa msimu wa baridi
mwaka huu, ikiwa majira ya baridi ni kidogo. Zilizobaki zitaenda chini ya rye
ya msimu wa baridi au mazao mengine ya kijani kibichi, ambayo yatasimamisha
upotezaji wa nitrojeni, na kuiweka tayari kuchimba mapema ardhi inapokuwa kavu
vya kutosha kufanya kazi katika msimu wa joto. Kiwanja kiliwekwa chokaa vuli
iliyopita, baada ya spuds kuinuliwa, na hii itafaidika na mbaazi na maharagwe
ambayo yatafuata na pia mazao ya brassica ambayo yatakuja baada yao. Sehemu
ndogo ya kitanda hiki itakuwa imepandwa na mimea ya kabichi ya spring vuli ya
mwisho, na kutakuwa na kitanda cha leeks, ambacho kitakuwa tayari kuvuta.
Kiwanja B
Kiwanja hiki kinapaswa kuwa kimejaa mimea mikubwa ya
brassica: Chipukizi za Brussels, broccoli ya kupendeza ("koliflower ya
msimu wa baridi"), kabichi kubwa ya msimu wa baridi yenye moyo mgumu,
kale, kabichi nyekundu, na mmea mwingine wowote wa brassica ambao unaweza
kuhimili msimu wa baridi. Kunaweza kuwa na safu chache za swedi ikiwa hizi
hazijavunwa na kubanwa. Turnip lazima ziwe kwenye banda au pishi la mizizi kwa
sasa, kwa sababu haziwezi kustahimili majira ya baridi kama Wasweden wanavyoweza.
Njama hii itatoa zaidi ya kijani wakati wa majira ya baridi, ikisaidiwa na
leeks katika njama A. Katika hali ya hewa ya joto, hii inasaidia kuepuka
canning ngumu sana na chupa. Shallots hupandwa nje, kwani njama hii inakuwa
mapumziko "mbalimbali" msimu ujao wa joto.
Kiwanja C
Kiwanja hiki kiko chini ya samadi ya kijani kibichi
kama vile rye au mazao mengine ya msimu wa baridi. Mwaka jana ilizaa mazao
mbalimbali, ya muda mfupi. Mara tu ardhi inapokauka vya kutosha kufanya kazi,
mbolea ya kijani inaweza kugawanywa ndani ya ardhi, ili ianze kuoza. Hakuna
hum', kwa sababu njama hii itakuwa "mizizi" mwaka huu, na nyingi kati
ya hizi hazitalazimika kupandwa mapema sana.
Kiwanja D
Kiwanja hiki ni cha kulima, au chini ya samadi ya
kijani kibichi, ingawa kama mizizi ilivunwa mwishoni mwa mwaka jana, kunaweza
kuwa hakukuwa na wakati wa kupanda mbolea ya kijani kibichi. Ni wakati wa
kumaliza mbolea au tope kwa mazao ya baadaye ya spuds. Ikiwa uchungu unafanywa
kwenye baridi kali, ni rahisi kusukuma barrow. Pia haina uharibifu mdogo wa
ardhi. Kunaweza kuwa na safu ya celery iliyoachwa bila kukatwa, na hii inaweza
kurekebishwa msimu wa baridi unaendelea.
Mpango wa matunda
Miti ya matunda inahitaji tu kunyunyiziwa na safisha
ya majira ya baridi ikiwa wadudu wamewatesa vibaya. Pauni mbili na nusu (kilo
1.1) za soda iliyoyeyushwa katika galoni kumi (lita 45.5) za maji ilikuwa dawa
ya kizamani, lakini siku hizi watu wengi hununua safisha za majira ya baridi
zinazomilikiwa. Baada ya katikati ya Februari miti ya matunda, gooseberries, na
misitu mingine hukatwa. Currant nyeusi inaweza kuwa ilikatwa katika vuli.
Matope au mboji huchujwa na kutupwa karibu na miti na vichaka, na ardhi kati ya
vichaka laini vya matunda hutiwa uma kidogo. Vipandikizi vyote vinapaswa
kuchomwa moto.
Nyunyizia na kupogoa miti ya matunda ikiwa ni lazima.
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